Transcription of an old book, made by Avis Hester. THE FOLLIES & FASHIONS OF OUR GRANDFATHERS (1807) copyright 1887 in London by Andrew W. Tuer. Chapter 2: February 1807 A NEW FASHIONABLE INSTITUTION. A grand suite of apartments, upon a magnificent scale, has been recently erected in Argyle-street, for the laudable purpose of rendering the amusement of the rich and great, conducive tot the interest of the Fine Arts, and the Professions of Science and Taste. At these rooms, an assembly of persons of rank and distinction is to be formed, for a certain number of nights in the season, with performers calculated to gratify a tasteful audience. A set of apartments, fitted up for the harmonic dinners of H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Cambridge, are to be opened daily, for the use of a Belles Lettres Society, which is about to be established at this place, composed of gentlemen who patronise the Fine Arts. In other sets of rooms, all the Daily Papers, Magazines, and interesting publications, will be found, for the use of the ladies and gentlemen, subscribers to the institution. This plan, though adopted at all the principal places on the Continent, is entirely new to this metropolis, and is somewhat similar to the subscription rooms at the watering-places; except, indeed, that in the present establishment, the most scrupulous care will be adopted to preserve a very select company, and such artists as are desirous of exposing to critical examination superior works of skill, on application to the Committee, will have their wishes gratified, as genius and talent, of every description, will here find encouragement and support. This establishment will differ essentially from any other in London, and embraces a greater variety of objects of public utility and amusement. Great judgment has been displayed in the arrangement of the building: the ceilings and walls of which are emblematically painted and decorated in a very superior manner. A handsome orchestra, which occupies one end of the large room, is so contrived, as to be convertible, in two hours, into an elegant little stage, sufficiently capacious for all the purposes of private theatricals. At the other end, boxes are constructed for the use of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, T. R. H. the Dukes of York, Sussex and Cambridge, who are subscribers and patrons to the subscription parties. This institution, which promises to unite refinement with amusement, and utility with taste, is already supported by a numerous list of the first rank and character in the kingdom. ACCOUNT OF THE EXECUTION OF THE MURDERERS, AND THE DREADFUL ACCIDENT IN THE OLD BAILEY, WHICH HAPPENED ON MONDAY, FEB. 23, 1807. The wretched sufferers were John Holloway and Owen Haggerty, for the murder of Mr. Steel near the 11 mile stone on Hounslow Heath, on the evening of the 6 of November 1802: and Elizabeth Godfrey, for stabbing Richard Prince with a pen-knife in the left eye, on Xmas Day last, of which wound he languished until the 24th ultimo, when he died. Elizabeth Godfrey was dressed in white, with a close cap: she wore long sleeves: she appeared much dejected, and sensible of her situation: was rather stout, well-looking, and in the 26th year of her age. About five or six minutes past eight they were launched into eternity: when a most dreadful scene took place at the corner of Green Arbour Lane, near Skinner-street, where, from the immense pressure of the crowd, several persons were trampled under foot, and 34 individuals were taken up killed, and dying: and also an equal number dreadfully bruised, trampled upon, and wounded were carried to their respective homes: besides 15 which are in a dangerous state in St. Bartholomew's Hospital. The following, as we could collect, are the particulars of this shocking affair. From the many hours the spectators were standing closely wedged together, many of them became very weak, through pressure and excessive heat: at the time the criminals mounted the scaffold, the anxiety of the populace to hear whether Holloway or Haggerty would confess their guilt, made them generally run forward: those the farthest off from the spectacle pushing forward to obtain a view, caused the shock, which was so great, that there was nothing to be heard from several quarters but agonizing screams and shrieks of "Murder! Murder!" At this moment a cart, which was overloaded with spectators, opposite Mr. Haley's wine-vaults, broke down, and some of the persons falling from the vehicle were trampled underfoot, and never after arose. A few yards from this scene of distress, nearly facing Mr. Hazel's tallow-chandler, stood a pieman, who, from the extreme pressure dropped his basket, and, in stooping for it was trampled upon by the crowd. This accident caused several to fall, to each of whom it was death. The screams of the dying and wounded were dreadful: no assistance could be afforded. One unhappy woman was trampled to death, who had a fine girl of about three years of age in her arms, but was very providentially rescued from a similar fate by the following stratagem: some persons from the window of the first floor in the opposite house threw out a rope, with a noose at the end, to place where the person lay trampled upon: the child lay over her dying mother, with heaps of others: and some persons contrived to put the rope round her body, by which means she was pulled up and taking in at the window. During the hour the three malefactors necessarily hung, there could be but very little assistance afforded to the unhappy sufferers: however, after the bodies were cut down and the gallows removed to the Old Bailey Yard, the mob began in some degree to disperse: the whole of which assembled could not be estimated at less than 50,000 persons. The marshals and constables cleared the street of idle rabble who remained about the place where the accidental catastrophes occurred, and, shocking to relate, upwards of 100 persons dead, or in a state of insensibility, lay round the street. The dreadful accident that happened on Monday is variously accounted for. At a late hour last night the following statement was received: On the north side of the Old Bailey, the multitude was so immensely great, that, in their movements, they were not inaptly compared to the flow and reflow of waves of the sea, when in troubled motion. In the centre of this vast concourse of people was placed a cart, in which persons were accommodated with standing places to see the culprits, but, it is supposed, from the circumstances of too many being admitted into it, that the axle- tree gave way; by the concussion may persons were killed. Unhappily the mischief did not stop here. A temporary chasm in the crowd being thus made by the fall of the cart, may persons rushed forward to get upon the body of it, which formed a kind of raised platform, from which they thought they could get a commanding view over the heads of the persons in front. All those who from choice or necessity, were nearest to the cart, strove to get upon it, and in their eagerness they drove those in front head-foremost among the crowd beneath, by whom they were trampled under foot, without having the power of relieving them. The latter in their return were in like manner assailed, and shared the same fate. This dreadful scene continued for some time. The shrieks of dying men, women and children, were terrific beyond description, and could only be equalled by the horror of the catastrophe. FASHIONABLE DISTINCTIONS A very fashionable lady, who has as much money as she can spend, and consequently many more guests than she can well accommodate, has devised a very pretty method of preventing inconvenience, by introducing a fresh supper and a fresh set of guests at certain intervals, till the whole have partaken of the pleasure of the supper-room. It is said that this lady, who has discovered such a tasteful method of prolonging a party, has resolved to improve still father on the idea; and is to have such a crowd of fashionables, that the supper-rooms shall be replenished with new guests and delicacies every two hours, and yet the entertainment will extend throughout the whole four-and- twenty. MADAM CATALANI This surprising vocal performer continues to attract the fashionable world at the Opera House in London. She had a short time back a slight fit of illness, during which the comic opera was suspended, and the circumstance gave rise to many absurd reports:-- among others, it was said that her husband (who is with her in England) had been private secretary to Bonaparte when he was first consul: that having been discovered to be a spy here, he was ordered to quit the country: and that Madame Catalani would sing no more, as she was obliged to depart with him. This infamous fabrication was however officially contradicted by Mr. Kelly. On the authority of a gentleman who knew Madame Catalani, at Lisbon, we cans state that she there received annually 3000 moidores, L4,050. besides a benefit, her salary in London is L2000 for the opera season; and if report is to be trusted, she has besides, engaged herself for 15 concerts, at the rate of 200 guineas each! "How are we ruined?" With all this accumulation of consequence, the lady, it seems, has more sense than most of her British admirers, as she has modestly expressed her surprise "that so great deal much fuss," should have been made about her in England. SALE OF FOREIGN MASTERS AT CHRISTIE'S. Mr. Christie commenced the Sale of Pictures for the season on the 7 February, 1807, with a very choice and valuable collection of the Italian, French, Flemish and Dutch Schools, in the highest preservation. By Rubens -- The Return of Peace to the City of Antwerp -- sold for 950 guineas. By C. Du Jardin -- A Cavalier watering his Horse at a brook, during a halt from a chase -- sold for 250 guineas By Ruysdael -- View of a River flowing through a hilly broken landscape -- sold for 240 guineas By Schalken -- Le Concert de Famille -- sold for 230 guineas By Murillo -- The Flagellation -- sold for 114 guineas By G. Vasari -- The Descent from the Cross -- sold for 17 guineas By Adrian Ostade -- An Interior, with boors drinking and listening to a man with a hurdy-gurdy, and a boy playing on the fiddle -- sold for 105 guineas By A. Cuyp -- A Cattle Piece -- 80 guineas By De Heusch -- A mountainous Landscape on the borders of a lake -- sold for 80 guineas. By Netcher -- A Morning Conversazione -- a cavalier playing on the guitar, and a lady holding fruit to a dancing dog -- sold for 39 guineas. By Guercino -- Samson and Delilah -- sold for 120 guineas. By Backhuysen -- A Brisk Gale -- sold for 80 guineas By Dominichino -- Diana and Calista -- sold for 135 guineas. By De Hooge -- The Mistress of a Family descending a winding staircase and overhearing the intrigue of her domestics in the cellar -- sold for 80 guineas. By De Hooge -- Cradle scene -- sold for 35 guineas. By Adrian Ostade -- An exterior, with Boors smoking -- sold for 30 guineas. ABOLITION OF THE SLAVE TRADE The most important domestic intelligence of the month is the formal abolition of the Slave Trade by the House of Lords. SCARCE BOOKS A small tract, containing the life of Glascoign, an old poet, and consisting of only eight pages, was, at an auction in London, knocked down for the sum of forty guineas! LONDON AND FASHIONABLE VARIETIES HER MAJESTY'S BIRTH-DAY Monday, Jan. 19, being kept as the anniversary of her Majesty's Birth-day, was graced with the usual solemnities. Soon after nine o'clock, their Majesties and the Princesses breakfasted together at the Queen's Palace. In the course of the morning the Dukes of York, Kent, Cumberland, Sussex, Cambridge, and Glouchester, the Princess Charlotte of Wales, the Bishops of Chester and Exeter, &c. attended at the Queen's Palace, to offer their private congratulations to her Majesty. About half-past twelve o'clock her Majesty and the Princesses, with the Princess Charlotte of Wales, went in their carriages from the Queen's Palace to St. James's. A little before two o'clock, her Majesty and the Princess proceeded to the Grand Council Chamber to hold a Drawing-room. In an anti-room, the Archbishop of Canterbury, and several Bishops were waiting to compliment her Majesty on the happy return of the day. The Lord Chancellor and the Cabinet Ministers were also assembled for the same duteous congratulations. According to the usual custom, the boys from Christ's Hospital were presented to her Majesty by Alderman Sir J. W. Anderson, the President of the Institution, and J. Palmer, Esq. the Treasurer. Her Majesty and the Princesses then proceeded to the Grand Council Chamber, which they entered at about twenty minutes past two 'clock. Her Majesty having taken her station to receive the congratulations of the company, the Lord Chamberlain waved his wand to Sir Wm. Parsons, who was attending in an anti-chamber on the left of the Throne, with his Majesty's band to perform the Ode for the New Year, 1807, by H. J. Pye, Esq., P. L., and the music by Sir Wm. Parsons. His Majesty's absence from the Drawing-room was occasioned by his eyes still continuing disordered. The Court closed at about half past five o'clock, when her Majesty and the Princesses retired to their private apartments -- and after taking off their Court dresses, returned to the Queen's Palace to dinner. REVIEW OF LITERATURE The author of a poem so popular as the Lay of the Last Minstrel, would naturally find it extremely easy to dispose of any work to which he should chuse to attach his name; and we fear that this was the sole consideration which induced him to publish such a compilation as the present discreditable volume. When the reader has paid his money, and sate comfortably down in his great chair to regale himself with his dish of tea and his new book, what is his mortification and disappointment, to find by the advertisement prefixed to the volume, that he has nothing before him but the old ballads that were published in the Tales of Wonder and the Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border? ballads which, if he have a bookcase he probably possesses; which, if he only contributed to a circulation library, he has probably been induced to read, and which, if he have judgment, he probably, after having read, has in many instances condemned. We can compare this disappointment only to that of the unfortunate butcher in the Arabian Nights, who after receiving from a magician what he fancies to be gold, is thunderstruck to find it no more than a bunch of leaves. There is no poet of the present time whom we feel ourselves so little inclined to pardon in his literary errors as Mr. Scott; because, with a genius that might have improved and honoured his time, he has written works which have injured and degraded it. Mr. Scott has already collected in his kingdom an immense faction, whom the harp of his _Last Minstrel_ has animated to a most indiscriminate Quixotism in defence of the new-born monsters of poetry. To the Lay of the Last Minstrel we are most happy in paying that tribute of admiration which its beauties merit; but we cannot help conceiving that the fame it has acquired has been far too high for its deserts. That its author is a man of genius, it is easy to perceive, but it is rather a genius of sweetness and elegance than of strength and sublimity: and even this sweetness and this elegance are most ungracefully disguised by the slovenly dress in which they are cloathed. This is not a proper place to point out the individual defects of that poem; but we have thought it right to mention our general opinion of it, both because almost all that applies to the Lay of the Last Minstrel applies to these Ballads, and because we wish our readers, before they proceed any further, to have fair warning, of the temper in which we commence our review of the poems before us. The Eve of St. John is one of the best of the ghost-stories; but it has a great deal of the worst matter of the old English ballads. For instance: Come thou hither, my little foot-page, Come hither to my knee; Thought thou art young, and tender of age, I think thou art true to me. This kind of stanza we maintain to be inferior to Johnson's burlesque lines, even taking them, for argument sake, seriously. Johnson says, I put my hat upon my head, And walk'd into the Strand, And there I met another man, Whose hat was in his hand. Just of the same description are these lines: And I'll chain the blood-hound, and the warder shall not sound, And rushes shall be strewed on the stair. So by the black rood-stone, and by holy St. John, I conjure thee, my love, to be there. The metre is perpetually mangled in exactly the same way throughout the whole poem, and, we are sorry to say, throughout almost all Mr. Scott's poems. An Italian improvisatore would have been ashamed to _speak_ so unmetrically: and a gentleman-poet, who is founding a new school, should hardly content himself with writing no better than a professional rhymer can _speak_. We now take our leave of Mr. Scott. In spite of our critical coolness, we frequently admire him, because he is frequently admirable in spite of himself. We shall admire him still more, if he ever lays aside the worst of all affectation, the affectation of simplicity, and the worst of all systems, the contempt of system. SPORTING INTELLIGENCE Boxing The beginning of the present month, two men, of the names Gibson and Jones, the former of whom is a huntsman and the latter a navigator, met in a field near Heston, Middlesex to fight a pitched battle for thirty guineas. The combatants were above the common stature, and were not deficient in courage, which was manifested after a severe battle of an hour and a half. Before they had fought ten minutes, they exhibited such marks of heavy blows as were scarcely ever witnessed; and at the expiration of half an hour, Gibson was completely blind. He was lanced, and the contest renewed with increased vigour, until Jones was unable to stand; it wan not till then that he resigned the palm of victory. There was very little shifting to avoid blows, for (unlike scientific bruisers) they stood and exchanged hits until one was knocked down. Each was alternately the favourite, and until the battle was decided, the victory was doubtful. THE FIGHT BETWEEN TINKER AND JOLLY MILLER About the middle of this month, a most desperate pitched battle, for five guineas, was fought at Newbury, between a tinker, of the name Symester, celebrated for agility, and a jolly miller, named Harrison, equally noted for strength, both inhabitants of that town. The contest lasted an hour and twenty minutes, in which there were sixty severe rounds. Although the man of metal was assisted the whole time of action by his wife's affectionate attention with a bottle of rum and water, which at intervals she sent to him by his daughter, a damsel about seven years of age, and had also fought fifty pitched battles, and shewed much science, yet the athletic limbs and long wind of the miller at last prevailed. THE PIEBALD HARE A hare of singular appearance was lately killed by the greyhounds belonging to the Rev. Mr. Evans, of Kingsland. The face, shoulders and fore legs, being of the most pure white. CANINE MADNESS At the beginning of this disorder the dog generally hands his head and tail, looks sullenly, leaves his companions, hides himself in some unusual place; he breathes short, a large quantity of saliva flows from his mouth, his tongue often hanging out, and always of a bad colour; his jaws are frequently wide open, a stupor seizes his brain, he soon becomes convulsed, and generally dies on the fourth or fifth day. Most dogs which go mad are seized in this manner. Every dog, which looks sullenly, refuses his meat, should be confined immediately, as these are symptoms of a very suspicious nature. EXTRAORDINARY MATCH On Thursday the 19th instant, an extraordinary match was decided on the Ferrybridge Road, between Mr. Welford's bay mare, six years old, and Mr. Campey's brown mare, aged (?), 11 stone each, 20 miles for 40gs, which was performed by the former in one hour and a minute leaving her antagonist near three miles. They started from the guide-post at Tadcaster town end, and ran to the ten mile stone on the Ferrybridge Road, and back again. The winner was purchased by Mr. John Furnish, coach-master, York, out of a straw-yard, only five weeks before. SHOOTING The late season afforded much sport to Lord Rendlesham and his party, and proved unusually destructive to the game on his extensive manors, in the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, the total number having amounted to 3795 head during the last week of the season. The account stood thus: -- Monday, at Butley, killed 70 pheasants, 46 hates, besides partridges, woodcocks, and rabbits; on Tuesday and Friday they shot partridges only; on Wednesday, at Butley again, 80 pheasants, with other game; Thursday at Whitmore Wood, 192 pheasants, with woodcocks, etc. and on the last day 195 pheasants, besides hares, etc. etc. COURT DRESSES WORN ON HER MAJESTY'S BIRTH-DAY Ladies dresses HER MAJESTY, as usual, on her own birth-day, was extremely neat. Her dress was composed of brown velvet, beautifully embroidered with scarlet and white silk; draperies and bottom trimmed with rich point lace, tied up with silk cords and tassels; the mantle to correspond. The neatness of her Majesty's dress was very much admired. HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCESS AUGUSTA. Brown velvet petticoat, beautifully embroidered with silver; a large drapery on the right side, with a most brilliant border, with damask and province roses intermixed; a small drapery on the left side, tied up with a very rich bouquet, and bordered with Italian chain; train brown and silver tissue. The whole had a very fine effect. PRINCESS ELIZABETH. A magnificent dress of green velvet, superbly embroidered with gold; the right side of the dress composed of a large marking drapery, elegantly striped with gold spangles, and finished at bottom, with a massy border of a Mosaic pattern, intermixed with pine leaves, richly embroidered in dead and bright gold foil, bullion, &c., the contour of which was strikingly elegant; smaller draperies in shell work, with rich borders, completed this superb dress, which was particularly remarked for taste and effect -- the whole finished with a massy border at bottom, of foil and bullion, and looped up with superb cord and tassels. Her Royal Highness wore a robe of green and gold velvet tissue sleeves, ornamental with tiaras of gold and green, and trimmed with point lace and gold fringe. THE PRINCESS SOPHIA. A puce velvet petticoat, embroidered round the bottom with twist and spangles, over which a most magnificent drapery, superbly embroidered with festoons of variegated geranium leaves of gold, embossed work; under the leaves was suspended an extraordinary rich drapery, with point, terminating in rich gold tassels; the robe was puce and gold velvet. -- The head-dress, as usual, to correspond. The whole dress was considered uncommonly elegant. PRINCESS MARY. The same as her Royal Highness Princess Elizabeth, in scarlet and gold. PRINCESS AMELIA. An elegant fawn -coloured dress, with silver tassels. -- Head-dress a very fine penache of nine feathers. THE DUCHESS OF YORK. Her Royal Highness's dress was universally admired; it consisted of a white crape petticoat, the ground richly embroidered with gold spangles, in shell patterns, bordered with wreaths of oak and acorns elegantly worked in gold, intermixed with blue velvet; the drapery showed with gold spangles, beautifully interspersed with bunches of acorns, a border of oak to correspond, the pocket holes tastefully ornamented with rich gold cord and tassels; train of blue velvet trimmed with gold fringe, with a profusion of diamonds on the body, sleeves, and girdle. -- Head-dress, penache of seven ostrich feathers, with a beautiful heron in the middle bandeau; necklace and ear-rings of diamonds; a very elegant pair of white silk shoes, richly spangled all over with gold, and ornamented with gold; the style of this dress was entirely new, and displayed great taste. EVENING DRESS. -- White lace tunic over blue satin train, trimmed with pearls, _a-la-grec_ pattern, with pearl bracelets and belt. -- Head-dress, ear-rings and necklace to correspond. PRINCESS SOPHIA OF GLOUCESTER A purple velvet dress, with an elegant drapery embroidered with silver; purple velvet train, superbly embroidered with silver, and trimmed to correspond. The whole formed that elegant appearance by which her Royal Highness is always distinguished. The most prevalent dresses worn at Court on her Majesty's Birth-day, excepting those of the Royal Family, were as follows: A splendid dress of white crape and satin, richly embroidered in shells of sliver and white velvet; the drapery looped up with chains of mattee silver, and fastened with arrows; body and train of steel coloured velvet, embroidered with silver. -- A pair of white silk shoes, richly embroidered, and trimmed with silver. The whole had a beautiful effect. A beautiful white dress, in draperies trimmed round with rich point lace, tastefully drawn up on each side with gold ropes and tassels, petticoat of rich carmine velvet, with wreaths of green ivy and white thorn, superbly ornamented with point lace, and massy gold rings; body and train of carmine velvet, richly embroidered with gold to correspond, sleeves of point lace; head- dress composed of a bandeau amethyst, a gold crescent in front, plume of white feathers; diamond necklace, ear-rings, and braces; white satin shoes. Petticoat of rich leopard satin, tastefully ornamented with superb black lace and real sable; train of leopard satin, trimmed with sable and lace to correspond. this dress may certainly, although neither gold nor sliver appeared in it, be considered one of the richest and most expensive at court. head-dress of lace, sable and leopard feathers. A very rich and elegant dress; white satin petticoat with broad silver tassel fringe around the bottom; white satin draperies very richly studded with demi beads of silver, bordered round with deep silver tassel fringe, supported and enriched with a curious snake rope and tassels of silver; train white satin, trimmed round with the same silver tassel fringe; body and sleeves richly embroidered in silver. Petticoat of French pink crape, embroidered in broad wreaths of tulips in French pearls, draperies the same, looped up with springs of plaited French pearls; train of rich French pink satin, embroidered in pearls to correspond with the petticoat. -- Head- dress, bandeau of knotted pearl, high plume, pale pink feathers mounted in the military style. A Queen Elizabeth's ruff in Brussels lace, which had quite a new effect. Rich satin petticoat, most superbly embroidered with a very deep wreath of gold and purple hyacinths, the lower part in rich stripes to correspond; the draperies were formed of a most superbly embroidered crape, trimmed with magnificent suit of point lace, and tied up with a profusion of gold tassels and cord; the bottom of the petticoat finished with a broad gold fringe, placed on a purple velvet, with feathers and diamonds; the _tout ensemble_ was a most happy mixture of simplicity and elegance. GENTLEMEN'S DRESSES. The most striking of the dresses, with the exception of the uniforms, were, A purple velvet coat and small clothes; embroidered waistcoat. A dark green coat with elegant cut-steel buttons: a satin waistcoat richly embroidered. An elegant olive coat, richly embroidered; a richly embroidered satin waistcoat. A brown cut velvet coat, nearly black, most brilliantly embroidered with silver and colours, and lined with white satin; waistcoat of white satin, embroidered like the coat. -- This suit was distinguished for taste and elegance. FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY, 1807 An evening full dress of rich Italian ermine sarsnet, worn over a soft white satin petticoat, let in with a gold net at the bottom, terminating at the extreme edge with a narrow fringe of gold; the back of the dress is cut low and square; the front of the vest is worn quite plain, so as to form the shape of the bosom; a gold net fastened at the center with a broach confines one side of the breast, passing under the left arm, terminates at the corner of the right shoulder; soft white satin sleeves, carelessly caught up with antique broaches, trimmed with swansdown to correspond with the remainder part of the dress. True elegance ordains the hair to waver in loose ringlets from the middle of the forehead down the side of the face; a few loose bows at the top of the head; a gold net veil blended with the hair, fastened on one side so as to cover part of the hair, is worn with this dress. Two long irregular curls fall on the left shoulder. White kid gloves, black silk shoes, terminate the whole of the dress. Morning dress. -- A Chinese robe made of India twill or French dimity; a square back with close wrap front, long corners cut with the back to form the shoulder, from whence it is suspended to the feet; trimmed round with a border of tambour or satin stitch of any fancy pattern. Another morning dress. -- The Roquelo dress is likewise considered fashionable, and is much admired; it is made with a loose back and biassed front, which passing through a robin, confines the dress to the shape, and forms a sack; a low collar triangle cape, trimmed with _Paris plat_, to form a binding, completes the dress. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS FOR LADIES' DRESS FOR FEBRUARY, 1807 The most fashionable ball and evening dresses are those uniting elegance with simplicity. The favourite dresses are carmine coloured sarsnet or white satin gowns, made just to touch the ground; the waists, though cut very low in the back, are certainly lengthening gradually, and not inelegantly. At the same time we are happy to observe, that grace (never incompatible with delicacy), has also heightened them very much on the bosom, which is no longer exposed to the "Rude gaze of each enquiring eye." Strings of large white beads crossing the bosom loosely _a la Diane_, and fastened under the left arm, are amongst the most novel and graceful ornaments. Sleeves are worn with very little fulness, and fastened up with small diamond or pearl broaches. -- The frock waist seems the most favourite make; and the long train, which has till now been the terror of every wandering _Beau_, is in pity to them almost exploded. Those who still wear them, give a very graceful effect to them by robings made of the same materials as the gown, and which are confined by the bows of the sash behind, and reach to the ground; these are trimmed with very fine lace, and give all the lightness of the frock dress behind with more of grace and effect. Gold and silver muslins are worn by the distinguished _Belles_. Mantles of black or white lace, thrown with careless elegance over the whole dress, and fastened on the left shoulder with large antique broaches, give great elegance to the figure, and are much worn. Diamonds are no longer, as formerly, confined to the embellishments of the _married Belle_: according to the present etiquette of the toilette, the fair nymph of sixteen now blazes in them as brightly as the sober matron of sixty did formerly, and they seem now to have usurped the place of pearls, and to be the prevailing and distinguishing ornaments of rank, youth, and beauty. The hair in a style of the greatest simplicity, with or without bows, a few very light small curls on the forehead, or down the side of the face, boasts only the elegant ornament of a crescent-formed diamond comb, which fastens it behind, without any other decoration. It is equally elegant, and as generally worn, confined in silver or white bead nets, with a few curls drawn tastefully through it on the left side. White satin is the most favourite, as it is the most elegant and appropriate dress for the present season. White beads are the only decorations allowed to mix with it, except diamonds or pearls. There is much less of hair now displayed than we have for some time past been accustomed to see; and that trusting to the graceful simplicity of nature, is dressed to imitate her plainest style, or bound in braided and plain bandeaus tight round the head, with only a few light curls on the forehead. White satin shoes are the most worn. The newest and most prevailing fashion in morning dresses is a short gown made of French dimity, worn up to the throat, trimmed with muslin _a la tire-bouchon_, and scolloped, not vandyked at the bottom. Plain India muslin dresses, also trimmed _a la tire- bouchon,_, are much worn. An Evening Full Dress for Gentlemen is composed of a dark double-breasted blue coat, ornamented with basket or plain gilt metal buttons; the coat made lapelled, and with pocket flaps at the side, but the pockets put in the plaits behind. -- A white quilting marseilles waistcoat, single-breasted; the collar to rise tolerably high, and a small portion of the waistcoat to be seen below the lapell of the coat. -- Breeches, of white or drab kerseymere, inclining to fawn colour, with a silk string at the knee and four covered buttons; white silk stockings, and shoes with buckles. Morning Dress. --A superfine cloth coat, single-breasted, cut off in a regular curve, so as to show the thigh and the skirts; about an inch shorter than the evening coat; the colours are dark olive mixed, or dark green mixtures, with black velvet collars and plated buttons; no pocket flaps to the coat, and pockets in the plaits behind. --A stripe toilinette waistcoat, single-breasted; the ground most generally white and contrasted by dark stripes, and the waistcoat bound with dark binding. --Pantaloons of darkish drabs, or inclining to the fawn colour, made of plain or milled ribbed kerseymere, and without any ornamental trimming on them, and worn with hussar pantaloons; or breeches of the same materials, and worn with brown top boots. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GENTLEMEN'S DRESS FOR FEBRUARY, 1807 Great coats of superfine olive cloth, single-breasted, with collar of the same, and covered buttons; the collar to rise high in the neck behind, but to fall moderately low in front, the breast pocket on the outside is entirely exploded, but keeps the same situation, only that it is inside. Some gentlemen have the skirts lined with silk. --black silk waistcoat and breeches, and indeed black suits, retain a portion of fashion, and are considered a genteel dress, and in that respect have at all times been esteemed by many as being adapted to the season. -- We observe that many gentlemen wear a lapelled coat in the morning, with the distinction only of a plated button, to point out that it is intended as a morning coat; but the most fashionable and decided dress, and which is worn by gentlemen who wish to show a taste in varying their dress, is such as we have described. Back to Chapter One. Jo Beverley's next romance novel is SKYLARK in May 2004 Go to Jo Beverley's homepage.